Salade niçoise: For a salad, this doesn’t half cause a lot of controversy. Few ever agree what should be in it. Anchovies or tuna? Anchovies and tuna? Green beans? Lettuce or not? Potatoes? On such decisions hang life-long feuds…especially in southern France.
Pan-bagnat: Salade niçoise in a bun.
Aioli: The word means “garlic mayonnaise”. As a dish, it’s warm cod with a floor-show of vegetables, and the mayonnaise as accompaniment. There may be no better Provençal lunch.
Petits farcis: Stuffed vegetables (aubergines, tomatoes, peppers, courgettes) generally served as a starter – big thumbs up if it’s actually vegetarian.
Pissaladière: Pizza-style tart with onions, anchovies and olives, but no tomato. They won’t remove the anchovies. Ever.
Socca: Chick-pea flour pancake, and much better than you’d think, if well peppered
Daube: Beef stew in wine
Stockfish (known locally as “estocaficada”): Dried (not salted) cod, usually prepared in a stew with olives and tomatoes
Poutine: Tiny fish fry served in salad, omelette or fritters
Tourte de blettes: Côte d’Azur folk are very fond of Swiss chard – and here it’s served in pie form. I likey.
Beignets de fleurs de courgette: Courgette (or squash) flowers stuffed and deep-fried. Ought to be vegetarian.
Sisteron lamb: meat from the Provençal hills, especially good when roasted with herbs.
Le Chantecler Two michelin stars and get ready for dinner drama
La Terrasse – elegant and simple and away from the tourists that crowd below
L’Acchiardo The Acchiardo family arrived in Nice from Piedmont in 1927, opened a restaurant in the Old Town and their great-grandchildren are still at it.
Voyageur Nissart It would be daft, though easy, to overlook this modest spot. Not far from the station, the Nissart is away from most visitor circuits in a lively zone of many nations. There’s nothing remarkable about the outside or, indeed, the inside of this restaurant – except the happiest possible welcome from a youthful team who seem genuinely pleased to see you. Also to serve you local classics such as lamb with thyme, chicken in lemon or red mullet. Young owner Max, incidentally, speaks better English than most English people. This is a stand-out spot for anyone on a budget – and everyone else, too.